Happy New Year

Several months ago, I mentioned that the AK47 rifle has a distinctive sound when fired at you. I just got remembered where that idea came from. In the movie "Heartbreak Ridge", as seen tonight on the Clint Eastwood marathon, this is mentioned several times as the heroes prove themselves rescuing medical students in Granada.

I will tell you that the sound of that weapon is nothing like heard on the movie soundtrack. In reality it's a pop-pop-pop like firecrackers. Can't tell you if it's distinctive, I believe it's the only gunfire I've heard live and I was not thinking critically at the time. Just trying to put as many walls as possible between myself and the sound.

Not much of a New Years party, watching Mr. Eastwood, but it's wonderful to be home and safe. Happy New Year to y'all.

Third worldification of the USA

I made up this new word awhile ago (but now I see others have too) and I've been reminded this morning of it's ongoing progress. Took the car to get a smog check as part of renewing the registration. Mechanic was having trouble getting the check computer to intialize due to a leak in the exhaust probe. I guess I was looking like I was ready to leave, which I was, when the guy said he would do the test for half price if I came back tomorrow. Well, he got the machine going and I did get the test completed for the stated discount.

Bargaining for smog tests? Is nothing sacred?

Adresses, I've been amused by the lack of a numbering system in lots of Lagos, so you get addresses like: "Lekki expressway, towards Ajah, next to Eti-Osa local office". But then here I get a reference like "Lafayette Bookstore 3569 Mt. Diablo Blvd, next to Postino". Like the smog guy when I called "on the way to Target". Are we so different?

On the hustle

Trying to finish my errands in California before flying back on Sunday. Spare inner tube for the bicycle, dry cleaning, car registration etc. It's so easy. In and out of the DMV in 20 minutes, pick up the dry cleaning no problem. Although why I had to bring a suitcase full of clothes that I hadn't worn from Africa to California to get them cleaned and pressed to bring back to Africa where I won't wear them really escapes me. Some things are better not questioned. Can't wait to get my shorts back on.

Some news items I found noteworthy:

• HP sells printers in Iran, well duh that's what they do and is it so dangerous?
• American broadcast TV goes digital February 17th. OK, so why is it that the PBS stations are the ones running the information on convertors and such? Do they just have the stupid viewers?
• Feds may open up offshore California for oil drilling. For a 17 months supply?
• Kickback scandal reveals that bribes exist in California? What a shock!
• English footballers behaving badly just like the yanks.
  
• Boats for sale ads increase on Craigslist. Maybe try to make one more house payment or just get out of town.
  
• The governator inducts class of 2008 into California Hall of Fame. With Dr. Seus and Dave Brubeck that's a distinguished group.
  

On the just like home notes, had a power cut on friday. But no generator man to fire up the backup. Just had to sit.

It's so cold

How do you guys stand it? Arrived yesterday into SFO in the rain. Breezed through customs and imigration. When the first guy marks your card with a 1 then you won't be asked to open your bags, pass right by. Caught a waiting shuttle, just by chance, didn't have any reservation and onto the freeway. Shared the ride with a young woman from India, she had been on the same BA flight, we commiserated over the total travel time. Door to door: 32 hours for her, 36 for myself.

I was actually feeling pretty good. Got upgraded to business class (seat 20D) for the leg from London and was able to sleep for a couple hours, really makes a difference to be able to lay down flat. But after 10 hours in the same seat I start to get goofy. I love that feeling about 20 minutes out when the airbrakes come out and the plane pitches down to the glide slope.

But it's cold in California, 50 degrees is just too cold. I can only go outside for a few minutes. Like just now to check the pool chemicals, back inside and rubbing my hands to revive them. Hard to believe that I won't get a power cut while typing this, habit keeps me saving frequently.
And it's dark here too. Sun comes up too late and goes down too early.

Better get started on my chores, got a costco shopping list of cheerios and other unobtainables. Renew the car registration and adjust the pool chlorinator. Routines of suburban life but made strange by three months of separation.

It's official

The wife has accepted a job back in California to start in April 2009. This has been in the works for a while so it's not a surprise, but it being official changed my thinking immediately. Now suddenly I'm thinking about what I'll miss and what I've enjoyed living here. Yes, I'm totally bipolar on this whole thing, despite being a pain in the ass, West Africa also has it's charms.

Like just now, I drove over to Rennies to buy a bottle of wine to bring to a dinner tomorrow night. Two Oceans Cabernet, pretty decent South African red. Sitting near the gate was Pious and another man, both work as drivers for other families. It's common for people to sit there to hitch a ride to the front gate, it's about a mile walk, because there's always someone going and the shuttles run only sporadically in the evening. I know Pious a little bit, he's driven me before, a real nice man, speaks english with an Indonesian accent and expressions picked up from his current boss.

We got to talking about last weeks bank robbery and Pious and the other man both had been nearby. They were excited to tell their stories but at the same time scornful of the robbers who don't work a proper job. We also soon discovered why the shuttles were slow, there was a big wahala at the front shuttle stop. Lots of shouting and gesticulating over some dispute. I was happy to drop them and move on. But it was a pleasure sharing some time with these two men.

There are inconveniences of living in Lagos, and sometimes the people seem to be rude and aggressive, but never towards me. I get greeted like: "Good morning, sir" and I do my best to know peoples names and initiate a greeting. I know that Stanley in the clubhouse is a big ManU supporter so I'm sure to remember something about a recent game to chat about. (hey, how about Rooney's two goals yesterday?)

Lagosians often have a scowl on their face that can be offputting. But say something and they will break out in the warmest smiles. Except that lady in security who takes quite a bit of cajoling before she smiles. Once they smile, they are your friends forever. We expats have started kind of a competition to see who can make that lady smile most.

It will be a year here, and it's become home. Tomorrow I'll feel sad to be on my penultimate trip to the airport. Next time it will be forever.

Seasons Greetings

Been inundated with helpful maintenance staff coming over to the house to see if there are any problems. Haven't seen these guys all year and now here they are. Yep, it's Christmas time, and everybody needs a gift. (locally known as "dash")

The gardeners want to be rewarded for "pruning" my tree. Well, it didn't need it and their treatment consisted of hacking off most of the branches so I passed up the opportunity. One of the gate guards yesterday suggested an amount equal to 6 months salary would be welcome. Some strange carpenter that I'd never seen before knocked at the door inquiring if anything needed doing. I almost said yes, since there is a cabinet door that is falling off, but then realized the smallest bill I had was N1,000 which would be way too much, so I demurred.

Last week while walking along the expressway coming back from buying some fruit, a guy sidled up to me and suggested that I needed to "help" him. Since we were near the used car lot, I pointed and asked "Would you like a car?".
"Yes, sure" he replied.
So I asked him, pointing, "which one? Would the hummer be OK?".
"Yes, sure, that would be fine." He replied as I turned and walked away. I was pleased to hear some bystanders laughing as I left.

I'll probably wait until after Christmas to take that walk again. The next day there was a bank robbery and shoot out in the same area. Here's the newspaper article that ran the next day. (Note how the police arrested the bystanders ).

14 invade bank with bombs, explosives

THERE was palpable fear in Ajah area of Lagos State at the weekend as policemen from the state police command engaged a gang of heavily armed robbers in a heavy shootout in a foiled robbery attempt.

A gang of about fourteen armed robbers had invaded a branch of a new generation bank in Ikota area of Ajah with sophisticated weapons including home-made bomb and other explosives.

The robbers had successfully destroyed all the barricades leading to the bank and were about forcing their way into the bank premises when policemen from Ajah Divisional Police Station stormed the scene of the attempted robbery.

The Sunday Tribune gathered that all of the robbers except an unlucky one escaped through a speed boat which was stationed at the bank of the lagoon.

The robbers in an attempt to block the police from getting to the bank had bombed a red bus which they might have snatched after disengaging from their speed boat and used it to block both sides of the road.

The Divisional Police Officer in charge of the station on seeing the sophistication of the weapons being used by the robbers called for reinforcement from the Area Command and an Armoured Personnel Carrier was drafted to the scene. The arrival of the armoured carrier led to a serious gun exchange between the robbers and policemen as heavy shootings vibrated round the entire Ikota community in Ajah.

Some people were reportedly injured in the incident but the image maker in charge of the state police command, Frank Mba, while speaking on the foiled robbery with the Sunday Tribune denied that anybody was injured in the gun duel.

Forty five people, who were at the river bank who saw the armed robbers disengaging from the boat ,have since been arrested for failing to report to the police for prompt response.

Durbars

Last week, we took an excursion up north with the Nigerian Field Society (NFS). Specifically to view the durbars at Kano and Katsina. On friday afternoon we flew Virgin Nigeria (VK) from the new domestic terminal (MMA2) to Kano which was really a treat. The cabin crew on VK was well trained and efficient which was great, but there was something else going on. The passengers were not the usual rowdy crowd. They queued up patiently and even sat in their assigned seats.

Arrived in Kano and could feel the difference. There was none of the frentic chaos of Lagos, there was a certain calmness in the atmosphere. The weather was quite different too, not too hot and very low humidity. Picked up the luggage without the usual scrum and off on the bus to the hotel.

There were three things we had heard about this trip that made it highly recommended. First, the hotel is nice, second the city ( and the traffic ) is relatively pleasant and third, the access at the durbars is unsurpassed. The leader, Paulette, is a personal friend of the emirs of Kano and Katsina. She had lived in Kano for 14 years in the 80's and 90's.

The Prince Hotel is very nice, with room prices from N14,000 up per night. We opted for a low end room, but we all got to use the same nice swimming pool. Kano is in the savannah with grassland and scattered trees, including the picturesque baobab. Pretty flat, the surroundings are a rich agricultural area, producing maize, millet, and sorgum. At one time this area was the economic powerhouse of Nigeria but has been neglected as the economy was sucked into the oil trap. The old city was surrounded by a high wall made of mud bricks that has been restored in places and left as a mound of dirt in others. Traffic was light compared to Lagos that's for sure and we were able to get around pretty easily. The mix is different too, lots more motorcycles compared to the number of cars.

The hoards of okada produce thick clouds of exhaust that combined with burning garbage and kitchen fires give the city a thick haze of pollution. Not very pleasant until one gets out into the countryside.

The emirs are remnants of the government that was in place when the British arrived. (they captured Kano in 1903). Once each year the local leaders pledge allegiance to the emir at these durbars. The second day we went by bus about 70km further north to see the durbar at Katsina. We sat in plastic chairs up on top of the palace wall, under the shade and next to the dignitaries that included the state governor. Each traditional ruler that reports to the emir then parades by on horseback accompanied by some others on horseback and some on foot (photo above). All dressed in traditional finery with lots of horns blaring and drums pounding. A picture doesn't do it justice, you will just have to imagine the noise and dust.

At Katsina, the emir's cavalry charged across the ground and pulled up short of the emir to symbolize their loyalty. At Kano, the next day, the parade was similar but each group then did a charge. Only a couple of horses fell or threw their riders. Kano also featured a deafening volley of old fashioned muskets. (Kano emir's palace)

In Kano, the women in our group got a special treat with a visit to the emir's second wife inside the harem. No men allowed and no pictures either. This was possible because of our leaders long friendship with the emir and his wives.

Look at the pictures, smell the dust, hear some pounding drums, wailing horns and flutes, and ear splitting gunshots. Admire the costumes. Sort of like the Rose Parade with cavalry charges.

Photos from Kano trip

Some of the ones I liked I put here. Enjoy!

Eid al-Adha

This Muslim holiday commemorates Abraham's sacrifice of a ram and the end of the Hajj. We traveled to Kano to see the Durbar that occurs at the same time too. More on that in subsequent postings. Looking through my photos this morning, I decided I liked this one. Seen alongside the road a couple of days before the holiday. This guy was showing off his fine cattle and we all enjoyed a laugh as he sat and even stood on this fine beast. A few days later the cattle were mostly gone, probably to a family feast.

Eid Mubarak!

Christmas time in the city

I was going to write a story recounted to me on Tuesday by a fellow resident. But lots has happened since then. Gunfire last night, heard off to the east, pretty far away. How sick is it that I begin to estimate the distance? Early too, about 19:30, I saw the guard go by on his rounds during this and was quite freaked out. Ducked into the kitchen to put more walls between myself and the sound.

Talked to Melissa just now, neighbor to the west, who heard other gunfire. Guard reported to her: "Don't worry Madam, there are no guns in VGC, we keep you safe." She also mentioned the gun battle outside the Cactus restaurant yesterday afternoon. Armed robbery attempt, nothing in the papers. Jane reported witnessing a shooting on the Falomo bridge, also yesterday afternoon, no further details.

Went, well attempted, shopping trip with Sunday as the driver. We did get to the company clinic for Mefloquine refill and got a couple books from the drop one take one library, then off towards town. Traffic was bad, not just usual bad, extra bad. As we were creeping along, I noticed Sunday was agitated, squirming around in the seat. Then he blurted out: "Sir, I need to easy myself." So he dashed off to the bushes, while I took the wheel to creep along while he took care of business. He easily caught up, since the car had moved hardly at all. I had every sympathy having done the same thing several weeks ago coming home from the beach. Jump out of the car, take care of business and jump right back in.

Other news was the usual cascade of large and small disasters. Several children killed from contaminated cough syrup, branded "My Pikin" of all things. Banks closed in Ibadan because of armed miscreants. Generator fumes kill four in Iforin. Unknown gunmen assasinate traditional ruler in Enugu. Beggars in front of Park and Shop unusually strident.

Sunday tells me it's December, everyone needs a gift. I nearly fell off my seat when the radio came on with a Nigerian version of Trini Lopez's classic "Felice Navidad". OK, gift fine, but please tone down the gunplay and lower the volume.

I'm going now to float in the pool and look at the blue sky and while looking up hope not to see the workers fall off the scaffolding while they fix the tennis court lights. Please give me some peace on earth.

The sky is blue, with light clouds, bumpy underneath. Two maintenance guys up the scaffold fiddling with the lights, 7 on the ground discussing football. A couple fishermen went by poling their dugouts with every bit the grace of a Venetian.

This is where I live.

San Francisco, 1978

Thirty years ago.

November 18, mass suicide at Jonestown, Guyana.
November 27, murder of Harvey Milk and George Moscone

"Horror upon horror, shock upon shock.... What is there about November? What is there about San Francisco?" Herb Caen, Nov. 28, 1978, San Francisco Chronicle.

Seems so long ago. I was living in San Francisco that year. My best friend's boss was the father of Larry Layton, the leader of the gunmen who shot Congressman Ryan and others at the airstrip. The rest of their family died that night.

See: Journey to Nowhere, a new world tragedy. Shiva Naipul.

Picture is undated. George Moscone, Jim Jones.

December already

Hard to believe it's December, weather has become less humid, but hotter, generally a welcome change. Laying in the pool, it could be an August day in Walnut Creek. Once again as time to leave gets closer (flying out on Dec 20th) things that were cute, or quaint tend to become just another pain in the ass. The company is in the throes of yet another strike, including the drivers so I haven't been out of our neighborhood for a couple weeks.

Q. What's your favorite thing about Nigeria?
A. Hearing "Cabin crew, doors to automatic and crosscheck".

Kind of a cheap shot, but that's where I'm at. We had two official turkey dinners, one at the company compound and another with our neighbors. The residence committee organized the first one, complete with 10 roasted turkeys. I was told on good authority that each turkey cost $300 flown in fresh from France courtesy of La Pointe supermarket. Perhaps the world's most expensive food store, I was only there once and probably won't be back. Although the array of currency counting machines certainly was impressive. Real afficionados keep track of when the weekly air shipment comes in and make sure to be there when it's unloaded.

Our neighborhood put on a great meal as usual. Two turkeys were cooked, one fried in oil and another roasted over charcoal in an aluminum foil contraption. We provided a whole sirloin that was roasted to perfection by one of the good cooks. Add to those an array of holiday dishes and a fine afternoon/evening was had by all. Maybe the (mostly South African) wine had something to do with it.

Now it's monday, power just went out, so we're on generator. Country supposedly lost 800 mw capacity last week due to destruction of a key natural gas pipeline. Not militants, just thieves that had apparently put in one too many taps on the pipe and it ruptured. We'll be off to Kano (kahn-oh) on friday to attend a big festival up there. Supposed to be a real spectacle, more on that later. Unless we cancel because of rioting in Jos (joss), another northern city. These things have spread before, even as far as Lagos. Fasten your seat belts.

Tough duty

Party season has begun in Lagos! With the rains mostly out of the way and the Harmattan not yet here, people are ready to get out.

First up, friday, was "Sail around the world" at the yacht club. Featuring food and drink from 15 countries at booths set up along the harbor. A coaster bus had been arranged which was quite convenient, leaving from house 88, but not before Soledad and her husband had made sure we all had at least one tequila shot. I think they are from Venzuela.

Leaving the driver to figure out where to park the bus, we headed inside and straight to the Heineken booth. Well, not inside, the festivities were all outside, the boats having been moved away to clear their parking area. American hot dog, washed down with Jack Daniel's and lemonade. Typical american, I guess. The Danish had a better sausage on a roll, and featured a shot of aquavit for those that dared. Anyway, you get the idea, lots of eating and drinking. In the dark, the harbour looked even a bit picturesque or maybe it was the drinks. Dancing was also accomplished, all under the stars with a light breeze to cut the heat.

Saturday, the Marines' Ball. Put on yearly by the U.S. Marine detachment that guards the consulate. This year was the 233th anniversary of the founding of the Marine Corps. Semper Fi! Another coaster, with a different crowd, to the Civic center. After being welcomed by our ambassador, some speeches and ceremony, we tucked into the buffet, including a really good vegetarian lazania (sic). Then dancing to the sounds of the Ebony band.

I was struck by one song they played, "Rock the boat". You know, "don't tip the boat over". I realized that in 1974 (about 34 years ago) I had heard a different West African band play that same tune. In Ghana, when I was there for Peace corps training. It wasn't all work you know, that little town had a great outdoor bar and dancing place and with nothing else to do in the evenings, under the full moon, I learned to love reggae. Now here I was in 2008, in another West African country, dancing to the same song, although the circumstances were a bit different. This time I was wearing my new tuxedo, enjoying fine food and drink, and protected by a large police contingent.

Four artists

Took a trip on Sunday with the Nigerian Field Society visiting artist's studios in the northwest part of Lagos. There is an active contemporary art scene and some dealers, like Nike who's gallery is near our house, but this was a chance to see the artists and their works in raw form.

Paulette van Trier who was leading this excursion told me that when she put out the word there were 60 artists who responded. She had to get a reasonable number for a day trip, so these four were selected. It turned out to be a pretty long day, but very interesting. I've included an image from each artist and a couple comments below.

Emmanuel Dudu - We have six of his small portraits of women and their gele's. (pictured in a previous posting). Most of his paintings feature motion, like women dancing or hunters stalking their prey. His studio is simply a room in his small house. But his family were really generous and welcoming even when invaded by 22 oyibos. Dudu set up his easel in the yard and did a quick portrait for us, a real treat to see him at work.


Bruce Onobrapkeya - Master printmaker and painter who's been at it for about 40 years. His studio and print shop fill a three story building in a not so good area of Lagos. With a sharp wit and easy confidence he showed us around and commented on some of the works in progress. There were a couple sort of collages that included bits of electronic parts, circuit boards and disk drive platters as well as beads and fabric that he was experimenting with.








Rom Isichei - Very well known amongst the expats, he is a local favorite. This example is from a previous style that he has now left behind. His newer works are also portraits but done in thick layers of oil paints. Each canvas very highly textured.






Osahenye, Kainebi - This example is much more representational than his current works which are much more abstract. He was preparing for an exhibition and had several large canvases in progress as well as an installation of painted jars that he was assembling. His studio reminded me of Jackson Pollock who reputedly had never cleaned a brush.












There is an auction tomorrow featuring these and other artists put on by Arthouse. Checkout the "view the works on sale link" for details.

Sometimes it works

Just got back from a quick shopping trip and not feeling the usual stress, actually pretty happy. Driver was on time, cheerful and competent. Traffic was light. Had a good map and found the desired house in V.I. with little trouble. Dropped off package with steward. Quick hop over to Park and Shop, bought a couple things. Then over to Goodies to get our latest addiction, their "multi-cereal" bread. What heaven, and it should be for N1,000 a loaf fresh baked. (about US$8, yikes!) Avoided the stopped traffic on that street by walking down to the corner to buy tomatoes and onions that the cook had requested. Cucumbers looked good so I got a couple of those too. Seems like they are coming into season. Back to the expressway through some secret way I'd never seen before and home before you know it. Two hours total, must be a new record.

NEPA (Never Expect Power Again) just cut off the power. Firefox hung from some annoying flash popup. Maintenance guy has A/C unit all taken apart on the floor when I thought he was just going to clean the filter, but for some reason I'm still happy.

Maybe it's the tomatoes. Sold by a guy sitting on the sidewalk that had a large basket of them that he was dividing up into small bags. The next guy was doing the same with potatoes. Those small bags are then sold to cars in traffic jams by nimble guys dodging traffic. So I was getting them direct from the wholesaler. N250 for good quantity of tomatoes, N100 for bag of onions, cucumbers N50 each. All this guy has is a basket of tomatoes, some plastic bags and a bit of sidewalk and he's in business. Talk about low overhead. That's exactly why the city draws in so many people from the countryside every year, the opportunity to start with nothing and build whatever you can.

Subterranean dwellers

If you've been living under a rock, or in the United States, you may not have noticed the stupendous football match played Saturday between Arsenal and Manchester United. If you don't know, Arsenal won 2-1. If you were lucky enough to watch the game, it's likely one you will remember for a long while. For the whole 90 minutes, both sides were at full speed, none of that standing around looking for a pass to make. One touch to control the ball, pass and go.

ManU tried to rekindle it's former glory by bringing in old timers Giggs and Tevez late in the match but to no avail. Even Arsenal losing their goalkeeper, Almunia, after he got kicked in the head, accidentally, was not enough opening for ManU to score the equalizer.

Now footie is not big on statistics, just stuff like scores, substitutions, bookings and shots. UEFA tracks how far players run during those matches but the English leagues don't. It would have been great to see how far these guys had run, I bet it was a bunch.

In other football news, the USA under 17 women played a very stylish game to beat Korea (South) in the quarter finals of their World Cup. Next up Germany. Also, you won't want to miss the FIFA Homeless cup. Huh?

The wife and I walked over to a nearby sports bar/nightclub to witness the match. Fun but loud. Arsenal and ManU have lots of supporters because of their African players. My wife being the smart one pulled a pair of earplugs out of her purse and enjoyed things at a less dangerous volume. Next time we must go earlier to get better seats, but this time the waitress was very nice in finding a place to squeeze in two more chairs.

What about Obama?

Leading up to the presidential election the Africans I spoke to were uniformly supportive of Obama's candidacy. A black man could be president, what a thought!

There had been a few bumps along Obama's West African road, chief among them was the problem of this fund raising event. The money raised could not be donated to the Obama campaign, by U.S. law, and the organizers have gone missing and the funds are in limbo. There were other pro Obama sentiments in evidence including billboards and newspaper articles. I was surprised how much interest this election in the U.S. had generated.

The locals I talked to were uniformly pleased to see Obama elected, if for no other reason than to have someone in the White House who knew where Africa is located.

There was one notable exception however. Our neighbour's driver declared "He be black man, so he go chop all the money-o". After a bit of thought he considered the fact that Obama is only half black and decided "He no go chop all the money, maybe only small small".

For further inspiration see: I go chop your dollars. BTW, adding "O" to the word at the end of a sentence is a common form of emphasis. Picture from Obama's 2006 visit to Nairobi.

An open letter to the Ants

Dear Ants,

Your recent attack on the plates in the dish drainer has prompted me to send to you this letter. Up until now, I thought we had a good working relationship based on our mutual respect and understanding. Despite centuries of conflict in human/insect relationships, I had hoped that at least for our little corner of the world things might be different.

I had allowed you a trail from under the back door, into the kitchen to the trash basket. (single file only). This trail I had not molested and I viewed it as an accommodation that would avoid open conflict between our respective species. You, the ants, could forage in the waste that I clearly did not treasure and in return you would refrain from further incursions into the kitchen area.

There was the regrettable previous incident involving the bread box that I believe both sides would just as soon forget. The orgy of chemical and physical attacks upon your kind results in a shudder of horror when I recall it, and I can imagine your memories are even more horrifying. Let us leave that episode behind us and move forward towards a living in a peaceful harmony.

I am suggesting that we soften our stances and consider what may be most beneficial in our relationship going forward. I will continue to allow the trail to the trash basket and you will constrain your activities to just that single trail. I am aware that when I take out the trash some few of your population may be displaced to the garbage can at the end of the driveway. I commit to you that I will not harm those travelers except by accident and I think you may be able to arrange for their repatriation, although this may require your negotiation with the ants that live near the front of the house.

So, I leave it up to you, continue to respect the limits that I impose, and I will allow for the above mentioned freedoms. Please don't let our relationship degenerate again into an ugly and shameful conflict.

Regards,
The human at house 23

p.s. I am not liable in any way for ant predation caused by the resident Geckos in the kitchen or any other part of the house.

The calculus of the expressway

Recently we were notified of an increase in okada (motorcycle) robberies along the expressway between our house and the office. They tend to occur between 18:00 and 22:00. That's when the traffic comes to a standstill and the 5 km journey becomes an hour or more. An okada zooms up alongside a likely looking car, like one of our company cars that have a distinctive reflective strip added to the back bumper. A window is smashed and valuables demanded. Oftentimes there will be two or more okadas working together.

Once the loot is grabbed, the okada(s) can zip away between the stopped cars and easily get away. I'm told this activity increases around christmas time. How's that for christmas spirit?

Sitting by the pool last weekend, the old hands were advising the fresh fish on how to handle this problem. First of all, you must carry some cash or valuables as having nothing to hand over can result in getting dragged out of the car and beaten. Ideally, one should wear a watch, expecially if it looks expensive. A $20 Rolex will work great. And have some handing over cash readily available and the rest of your money hidden somewhere else. N3, 000 was suggested as being a good balance between not losing too much yet still satisfying the robbers.

You are safer if the police don't show up. If they are nearby by some random chance, they will likely run away so it's usually not a problem. If some hero policeman tries to intervene, get out of there if at all possible as there exists a real chance that shooting will break out in the wildest and least effective manner endangering everyone except the robbers. The only recent case of the police actually being effective was an incident on the Falomo bridge where the frightened robbers jumped into the creek and drowned.

If your Rolex gets taken, next time you are stuck in traffic buy a new one from the peddlers working between the lanes. Maybe you will even get your old watch back. Still a bargain even if you have to buy it twice.

Ibadan and traffic

Yesterday on our return trip, there was a "go slow" on the expressway south from Ibadan to Lagos. Normal for Sunday afternoon when the mega churches along this stretch of road let out. But it was too early for that, not even one in the afternoon. Those preachers go at least until 2 pm or even later if they're really geared up.

We had been sailing along on the double carriageway at about 60 kph, two lanes in each direction, the road good and traffic light. This direction the tanker trucks are empty and can move right along too. Then we all came to a halt.

Immediately, the right shoulder became another lane. Even though dirt, with huge dips and puddles, vehicles moved over. I noticed that the transport mini buses were a large proportion of them and began to wonder if there was some local knowledge at play. The left shoulder became a traffic lane the opposite direction, as vehicles turned around to go back to where there was a place to get across the dividing wall and get on the other side of the carriageway. Sure enough, in a short time there was a steady flow going against the traffic on that side, and they were moving well.

We were not willing to take either option, so stuck it out in the lane we were in. Although we did have to deal with a steady flow of vehicles trying to merge from the right shoulder back onto the pavement, especially when a large pothole loomed. Since there is no such thing as politely letting someone into your lane, especially when they have gained an advantage by moving over and now want back in, we had an ongoing match of chicken with the merging vehicles.

I could see that this wasn't a predicable go slow by the lack of vendors between the lanes. There were just a few. In the places where jams are regular, the vendors are too. Here their lack signaled something out of the ordinary. Hopefully an accident of some sort that will have clear traffic once we get past. That thought offered some hope of not having to creep several hours into Lagos.

It was an accident. There was a large truck overturned blocking all but one lane of the road. Everyone had to merge into the lane we were in, so it was pretty slow and nerve racking, but at least we could see some hope. The cab of the trunk had apparently gone off onto the left shoulder which was soft, so the cab flipped and took the trailer with it. Guiness bottles, cartons of them were strewn about. They appeared to be empties, headed back to the brewery.

We had seen one flipped over truck going north, that one loaded with floor tiles and computers and now one going back south. Once we had cleared the beer truck, we were sailing along again and made it to Ikoyi by about 2:30 pm. Good time for leaving Ibadan at around 11:00 am.

It had been a pleasant weekend at the IITA.

BTW traffic jams caused by mega churches are a world wide phenomenon. WWJP? (where would Jesus park?)

California

Looking back at three weeks in the golden state I am struck by a few things. So in no particular order...

The weather was great! Please be sure to appreciate it. The October cool evenings and warm afternoons are just heaven. Every morning I woke up with delight.

No wonder Americans don't like soccer (football, futbol). The MLS is lousy. The players can't control the ball, they can't organize an attack and the announcers are just plain annoying. Give me Liverpool's grace or a Brazilian team caressing the ball any time.

The ACE hardware at 51st and MLK in Oakland that is just what a hardware store should be. All behind the counter, just walk in and get helped, none of this Homeless Depot stuff. After Dutch Boy closed on Telegraph Ave I thought these places were all gone. You go dudes!

TV. Orange county choppers selling on QVC? Mikey as role model? WTF?

How about a TV show that's just a show and not an over dramatized epic? When I was in kindergarten our house got moved a few blocks. It didn't need Discovery channel camera crews and "if it slips now it's over!" fake drama. The company got the job done with an easy skill and confidence, that's a real story.

And speaking of TV, how about cutting out the fake science. Like the show (another Discovery production) that moves from black holes, yielding white holes, leading to matter creation at the mid Atlantic ridge that explains the Bermuda triangle. Huh?

And speaking of climate change, we've proved a variant of Newton's third law: For every scientist there is an equal and opposite scientist.

Rain starting to pour again. Humidity 100%. Miss that California weather.

The hyacinth are in

And other musings on my return to West Africa.

Got back yesterday morning. Delta flight 50 was uneventful, but arriving on Sunday was a very good thing. Not much traffic, I wonder if it's just me, but my fascination with the ongoing spectacle along the roads was not near as fascinating as usual. It helps to be moving.

Seems this time of year, the water hyacinth bloom and take over large parts of the lagoon. This picture is from our balcony. Yesterday this was all green, then last night we had big rain and wind and a lot blew away to somewhere. I wonder where? The purple blooms are quite nice, but not if you are paddling a canoe or landing a float plane.

This morning when I went out on my bike, the mood was unusually calm. I wonder where everyone is? Maybe the rain last night canceled most construction projects for this morning. Very few people along the roads, most chop bars seemed closed.

More rain coming though. The dark clouds against the brown sky look especially ominous.

Violating rule number 2, waiting for a driver to come and take the car to the travel agent to pay for Christmas time travel tickets. Rose just called to say "They are sorting out the public transit".

Cook is downstairs, humming tunelessly as she chops. Sounds like home.

Financial Crisis Jokes and thoughts

What's the difference between Venzuela and the U.S.?

Venzuela only takes over successful companies!

Ta boom!

Shouldn't we have know that it was all over when E*Trade was sponsoring poker tournaments on TV?

How about exporting college football? Saturday TV is full of it. If we could sell it to the rest of the world, then it could be replaced by more cooking shows. And we rake in the dough and save the economy.

Oh, never mind, sell them the cooking shows too. Since the viewers can't taste or smell the results, they could be doing anything. The host can only go "Hmmm", I'm not convinced, he's an actor you know.

But, best of all. Export all the commercials. Since that's the only thing the U.S. actually produces anymore, then we need to get value for it. I'm sure there's a peasant somewhere that needs to be convinced that "you meet the nicest people on a Honda", or that a swiffer is better than a mop or that paint without VOC (whatever that is) will make your family love you.

Come on America! Instead of a WPA, let's do a WAA. (World Advertising Administration). Go with our stength!

Back to California

Flying back on Sunday noonish. Means the bus will pick up at the house 04:30. God, at least the traffic will be light, with the bridge still out and only maybe 5 hours to wait for the flight. At least not going through London where the computers are out or Frankfurt where the terrorists are out. Direct to lovely Atlanta. Home of one of the "Chiefs" monumental string art pieces above the arrival hall. We have just a small but intricate and lovely piece of his (1972) in our house.

And what the heck are you Americans doing over there? Bailing out for $700 billion, who? It's turned into a sort of get the rich guys revolution, except that the rich guys (aka Congress) are making up the rules. How about the people who bet the economy would be going lower, like stock market shorts and risk insurance shorts? They made a bet, they won, and now they lose because the govmint won't let them win? What the hell?

And the suitcase cost N4000 to fix plus N500 for driver time plus N200 for parking and I'm sick of it all.

I've noticed that when leaving this coast for the U.S.A things that were laughed off are now a serious pain. It's like my perspective is shifting in advance. Getting my finger limbering up for California driving. Why is it I can't buy a wall clock while stuck in traffic on northbound 80 to the Bay Bridge? Aren't you guys civilized at all?

Catch up with you'all when I can.

I'm in the rain

Yes, it's pouring rain today and keeps me inside and I don't like it if I don't get out at least for a bike ride or a swim or walk. I suppose I could swim, but then swimming in the rain has always seemed weird to me. I mean you're all wet both below and above.

So it's just me and the computer screen, hoping the power stays on. Just for fun, I'll provide you with a couple fun links I've found to match my mood, prize winners all.

In the category of not getting it, I submit this site where research proves that rain causes green plant growth or green plants cause rain or something. Here

And looking at the pictures of the new Academy of sciences museum in San Francisco (here) , I can't help but be reminded of Joni Mitchell's "Big Yellow Taxi". Featuring the classic line:

"They took all the trees and put them in a tree museum"

Life follows art? How's that go?

And I got to thinking about how inadequate photographs are in describing a place. I've heard that the memory of an odor can be the strongest reminder of a place or event and I believe it. The photos always make it look so clean. I've wondered for a while if that's why "native" type village scenes never ring true in the movies. (See the village in Mutiny on the Bounty for a perfect example, and with really bad drumming too).

So when you look at the picturesque scene above, keep in mind that it's about 40C and the sun is unbearable and you're stepping in who knows what and everything is rotting and you are too and it's noisy. Photos are always quiet, the market's not like that. Someone's calling "I give you good price", or arguing with another vendor or just yelling "Hi" and carrying on a conversation with an acquaintance about a block down the road. And there's plenty of room there for a motorcycle to zoom through with worn out horn bleating a warning.

Remember rule number one: Get in the shade. And enjoy the show.

He works for us now.

What a thrill as Ronaldo took the field last night in ManU's game against Villareal, proudly wearing the AIG logo. Hey, wait a minute. Since the U.S. taxpayers now own 80% of AIG, Ronaldo's working for us.

So dude, stick to the left side. Your efforts on the right were weak and unfocused, the left side is where you shine. And lose the stepover move, everyone's seen it a thousand times and it doesn't fool anyone anymore.

Why do we still have polio in Nigeria?

This question came up the other day, triggered by a story of a man divorcing his wife because she had the children immunized against polio. (story) Often we westerners can't understand why some things that we think should be so easy are not. Eradicating the last remnants of an infectious disease can be really hard. Especially in an economic and cultural setting that is rife with poverty and distrust.

Why doesn't everyone simply bring their children forward and get the drops? Looking back at the history of the interaction between the west and Africa there is plenty of basis for distrust. And recent events have furthered that distrust of western medicine in northern Nigeria

The 1996 drug trial conducted by Phizer in Kano, which is the subject of lawsuits that are still going on, didn't help matters. Whatever the events that took place during the trial, the fact that the drug given to these children, Trovan, is not approved for such use in the U.S. will ensure that this remains a sore issue no matter what the legal outcome. See story

In 2002, the polio immunization program in Kano was hindered by the opposition from local Muslim leaders. This following quote from the story may seem mindboggling to western ears but demonstrates the relutance of Nigerians to accept the "believe us, we have good science, we know better, it's good for you" argument.

"If they really love our children, why did they watch Bosnian children killed and 500,000 Iraqi children die of starvation and disease under an economic embargo?"

Vaccination programs have also been problematic in India. This comprehensive article in the N.Y. Times has more details concerning eradication efforts.

It is heartbreaking that any child has to suffer with polio. But there are so many factors working against total eradication that it may never be achieved. Maybe it's too bad the children have to depend on adults.

P.S. Lest we think we're so smart, the supposed link between measles vaccine and autism that was launched by this paper and later totally discredited has led to a decline in measles vaccinations. (Most recent study here.) Recently, measles cases have increased in the U.S.

I just drive around

Sometimes, like this morning, when it's rainy and the cook downstairs is singing to herself making somosas I go out for a drive. I need to get outside and the other light bulb blew in the living room this morning and so I go. I have the code for the monitoring box, so I can type it in and then go.

Mandy in the morning on FM 88.9 talks sports with some interesting callers, although some of the phone connections are just horrendous. It's the rain she says, and Mandy ploughs right along with good humor and grace. I wonder if the Chelsea coach appreciates how much good advice is available. Talk centers on Manchester City which has recently been bought by some billionaire that needs a toy to play with. The latest in a string of purchases of English teams by foreigners. One cornerstone of western capitalism is private property rights and that includes foreign investors too. At least that's what Alan Greenspan says. Did you know he dated Barbara Walters?

The rain pounds down on the windscreen, thunder rumbles in the distance. Mandy perks along as I ease through the deeper puddles and over the speed bumps. Nice to be outside, at least this far.

New house

The other morning when it was too rainy to ride my bike I went for a walk instead. I figured this would be a good time to bring my camera and get a few snaps of the neighborhood. A half block down from my house, there is a bright pink house that I had seen featured in a real estate brochure. I spoke to the gate guy.

"Can I take a picture?", holding up my camera.
"Why would you want to do that?" he asked.
"I, ah, well I live over there and wanted a picture to show my friends what the houses look like."
"No, no picture" he replied as another guy came out of the house to see what was going on.

I knew it was polite to ask for permission for pictures but I wasn't off to a very good start. I proceeded down the street. There are a lot of houses for sale or rent so maybe they wouldn't be so protective. At one place, I asked a guy wearing a tie figuring he was in some decision making capability. "It's not my house, do whatever you want". So I took that picture, mostly the answers were no.

At the above pictured place, I asked and then started to regret it. The house is under construction so there were several people about. The first guy I asked was from the swimming pool company but he would get the security guy. The security guy couldn't answer but he went to get the engineer. (architect?) The engineer was very polite.

"Why do you want to take a picture?"
"I live here and think it's an interesting house that I can show my friends." I said
"Well, I'm not sure. I need to ask my client. Are you the one who rides the bicycle?". He asked.
"Yes, that's me."
"Don't get annoyed, I just think it would be better if I asked. Next week when I see you on your bike I'll let you know."

I was definitely not annoyed, he was being really nice considering my interruption. And I let him know that. I figured either he was making a polite way of saying no, or maybe he really would ask. That was on a Saturday. I didn't see him again until today, Wednesday.

Sure enough he called out to me and I went over. The client had said taking the picture was fine. So I did and there it is. Makes me think of the Adam's family house, I suppose it will brighten up when it gets painted.

Friday Fat Boy Run

Have I mentioned this before? Anyway, friday afternoon was the traditional run/walk from the office to the beach. (image is from an older tee shirt, these days we don't run back). It's an excuse to get out, do a bit of exercise and drink beer. All worthy endeavours.

I was walking and a couple others were too. Then some dropped out after hearing of the deep puddles on the route from the recent rains, they were going to ride over on the bus. Fair enough. The rest of us dashed across the expressway, dodged between the shacks, uh, I mean shops, ducked under the fence and onto the sand. They are going to build a school and houses here and the sand had been trucked in and leveled off as a first step. The going was easy, since the wet sand was pretty hard. Those builders better hurry up though, it's already beginning to wash away.

My companions decided to take the longer route and I headed directly south to the beach. Not much chance of getting lost, here it's open grassland and a three story unfinished house acts as a landmark. I did have to wade through some ankle deep puddles which was not too fun. Is it flowing or still water from which you get river blindness? I can never remember.

Arriving at the Palm Beach bar, things looked different. Where had all the shacks gone? And where was the bus? And why were the people who had ridden the bus walking along the road? It seems the night before huge waves had come in and swept clean across the beach and road and carried away a lot of the raffia and palm leaf buildings. The bar itself is up on stilts and was safe, thank goodness, although it's wooden steps had been carried away.

As we settled in over our drinks the stories emerged. The puddles were deeper because of these waves, the road was covered by deep sand and the bus, and one private car, were stuck quite a ways up the road. Normally we can idle there until after dark and then hop right on the bus but this day it seemed prudent to get back to the bus before dark. So a quick drink and off we went.

I would like to say this was an orderly retreat but it certainly wasn't. Everyone scurried off down the road not making any attempt to stay together. Our erstwhile leader came zipping past on the back of a motorcycle that he had hired to catch up to us. As we got closer to the bus, there were increasing numbers of okadas (for hire motorcycles) to dodge. It was getting quite dark with only the headlights of stuck cars and kerosene lamps as light. A most unexpected sight was a front end loader digging at the sand as we hurried past.

At the bus, the obruni's got at the back and pushed, much to the delight of the locals who hooted and hollered encouragement and laughter. With sand spewing out from the spinning tires we lurched forward once, stopped and then again. The bus took off, looking for a safe place to stop so we could pile in. So we piled in, then looked out the front. The road was filled with a line of cars coming the other way that couldn't move because of other stuck cars. It looked impossible.

Our leader jumped out and managed to bribe, cajole and threaten enough cars to move off to the side that the bus could move ahead. With at least a millimeter to spare we squeezed through and were on on way. Well almost. A couple of gentlemen demanded payment for their assistance in the pushing and our driver had to give them a few bills. Then the gatekeepers wanted assurances that we had paid for this many people on the way in. Then another man pounded on the side of the bus complaining that our bus had splashed his fine outfit. No sympathy for him, it was felt he should have stepped aside. Weaving around and through some truly monumental pot holes we managed to get to the expressway and on our way.

I had wondered when the gatekeepers would notice that every time the bus that had paid for a few people on the way in had lots more on the way out, having picked up the runners. Back home in time to join our team (the No Brainers) and win the quiz night competition.

Sometimes...

Sometimes I just don't know. Living in another culture it can be really hard to tell what other people are thinking. Like today, a couple of maintenance guys came over to see if they could fix our kitchen door handle. It leads outside and it really needs to operate and lock properly. The one guy seemed really gruff, almost surly to my view. They worked with the lock for a little while, took it apart and then put it back together and pronounced it fixed. I made a point of asking "Are you sure?".

As they were leaving, I noticed the gruff guy took a look at our new art work. A couple weeks ago we had bought 6 small oil paintings, each of an African woman wearing the native headgear (gele). They're currently mounted on the dining room wall.

"Do you like them" I asked.
"huh?" he replied.
"I mean the paintings, the women".
"Yes, they really show the beauty of the black woman, they are beautifully done".

Wow! That wasn't some disaffected surly maintenance guy, he was a romantic, a lover, a man.

I wonder what he thought of me?

Satellite TV

One of the things I've been enjoying "over here" is the satellite TV sports coverage. Watched a lot of olympic events without commercials, including sailing, rowing, weightlifting, triathlon, shotput et. al. Some were really compelling, like weightlifting, that has a drama and crescendo all it's own as the lifters try to get the highest weight in their three allowed tries. Some were just stupid, like team handball, which is the only sport to rival netball in stupidity.

This last week we've had hours and hours of US Open (tennis). Really fun. Only downside is the announcers, like Luke Jensen who should be relegated (with Bill Walton) to that great scrap heap in the sky. I mean how many times can you repeat the same thing? I enjoy watching Serena Williams. Besides being a great player, she's the only one who takes only the balls she needs when serving. Everybody else takes at least three and some take four. They look at them and then by some mysterious criteria bat the "bad" ones back to the ball person. I guess it's a form of meditation, but really, please just take a ball and hit it for goodness sake, they're all the same.

Also got to watch the European Grand Prix (Valencia) and the IRL league race from Sonoma. Not very exciting races per se, but each had it's moments. In Valencia it was Massa's amazing drive where he just ran away from everyone and then later when Kimi Raikkonen's pit guy got knocked down by the fuel hose that didn't detach properly. Raikkonen soon after retired with engine failure. In Sonoma it was Castroneves finally breaking out of finishing second.

One striking contrast was in the course signage. The F1 guys just do it so much better. Every place on the course where a TV camera was setup was decorated perfectly for the single sponsor. Considering the image above, despite the crash.net watermark, it's easy to see the one and only sponsor in the F1 picture. It was setup that way all around the course. The Sonoma coverage didn't have any coherent setup. There were seemingly random sponsor's signs placed randomly around the course. (sorry couldn't find the perfect picture). But you get the idea. I would suggest that the IRL guys take a lesson. Raise the fees to sponsors and deliver a more targeted image and raise your series image a notch or two.

Namibia notes

For you map and geology fans, I've gone ahead and added links to google maps to most of the Namibia trip postings (see "Map" on the posting). Or you can start on the map and follow around clockwise, from Windhoek then to the south and around, click on the locations to see the posts. Hope I got all the links right, it's a bit of a struggle on a slow link and with the power going out all the time. I commend google for having built in saving in blogspot and their maps. Haven't really lost anything except reboot time. Please zoom in on the satellite images to checkout the desert features, especially the dunes.

Thunder booming in the distance off over the lagoon. Bright here but ominous. Outside flap on the kitchen fan vent banging. Wind is not howling, but making a low roar. Squall approaching across the lagoon. Sky turned flat gray. Wow! Big thunder. This should be quite a show.

How it works

A few weeks ago, a truck arrived at our compound carrying a large shipping container that had been fitted out with a pitched roof, windows, a door and a frame where an A/C unit could be mounted. Containers like this are all over the place, as shops, construction offices and the like. Storage for bags of cement seems an especially popular use. It was placed onto the concrete pad near the dock where the float plane lands.

The nearest neighbor asked around as to the purpose of this and was told it was to be an office/dorm for up to 10 police officers that were being stationed here to beef up security. This information came from who knows where, but it seems to have come with some credibility. These neighbors were not happy with this arrangement.

The first problem was that the roof had been damaged during the unloading and was now banging in the wind and pieces were in danger of blowing off. Since there were children living downwind they might be cut in half by a flying piece of sheet metal. Assurances were made that this would be fixed and it was.

A couple days later there was a barbecue party with the facilities manager's boss in attendance. I wasn't there, but what I heard was that he got an earful from the residents expressing displeasure at so many people to be living in the container especially since there wasn't any toilet. This guy whipped out his cell phone and got the facilities guy to promise that it would be removed post haste. Residents were suitably impressed.

Well, it didn't get removed. There were more promises and increasingly strident email was exchanged. Righteous indignation ensued. A plan was then forthcoming that involved a concrete pad that was being poured in another location that needed to cure and then the container would be removed for sure.

It still wasn't removed, more deadlines were set and missed. The whole issue was a fertile topic for poolside discussions amongst the residents. The descriptions of the increased security measures became more and more elaborate, and in hindsight, less plausible. Then last saturday a truck and a forklift arrived and I figured something would happen for sure.

The truck and forklift left and the container remained.

This wahala eventually drew the attention of the managing director. He set us all straight (or at least changed the story). According to him, the container was to be used as a storeroom for the aviation department. They felt it would be useful to have some things stored near where the plane tied up and needed a place that could be locked up. There was never any intention to station policemen there or anyone else. The original story may have been launched by someone who didn't know what was going on and needed a plausible explanation so it didn't look so obvious that they didn't know what was going on. Successive retelling added more and more layers to the story. Did you hear they are getting an armored car to patrol at night?

At least that's today's version. The new story is now embellished to include that the container will be painted some pleasing colour to mollify us residents. How about pink?

Giraffe in the haze

The trip had to come to an end and so it did. Tar road back to Windhoek, straight shot, except we did stop and see the Cheetah Conservation Fund. Well worth the 40 km of gravel road as a side trip. They work to preserve cheetahs in the wild as well as take care of animals that can't be released. Feeding time is 14:00 on weekdays. They have a very pleasant place where you can enjoy a cup of tea or a sandwich while you are waiting.

I took the picture of the giraffes just because they are so prehistoric looking. Especially in silhouette with the dry lake beyond. They don't make a lot of sense here though, the trees are too short.

Flight back to JNB without incident. Came in for landing with the sun glinting off a sea of tin roofs. Informal housing. Got my daughter off on her flight back to the states, we back to LOS.

Todays note: Feels like home. Picked up the toaster to clean underneath. Sitting there was the fattest gecko I've ever seen. It moved pretty slow, but I was slower and it got away under the bookcase. Probably see it again later.

Etosha National Park

Back on the tar road and north to Etosha . This really was the highlight of the trip, at least in terms of animal viewing. One benefit of that last lodge was that it was close to the park entrance so we arrived around 10:00. Since check in time wasn't until 12:00 we went for a drive, didn't really see much but got acquainted with the area. The main feature is a large (most) dry lake bed and the area around it. Sort of like Salt Lake city with elephants. We were booked to stay two nights at Okaukuejo, the park headquarters and main lodge.

The main attraction is the watering hole, floodlit at night, right in front of your room, that is if you book a "premier waterhole chalet" (see web site for details). We had number 33W and it was a real treat. From the upstairs balcony you can see all the action or even laying in bed, well, you do have to sit up a bit. Or, if you need to be a few feet closer you can walk out to the sit on one of the benches. The picture is of my daughter sitting on the bench with an elephant behind. The animals were doing something interesting all day and night. Sometimes, like in the picture there was a lone elephant contemplating his existence and whether to have a mud or dust bath. Other times a whole heard of elephants with babies stirring up a huge cloud of dust. It was sort of like the SuperBowl where you didn't dare not watch every second from fear of missing something.

It is amazing how the animals didn't care about us humans at all. Even after dark with flashes going off they didn't seem to notice or care. And it wasn't just elephants, there were zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, springbok, impala, oryx et.al. With a pair of jackals hanging around just for atmosphere. At one point in the afternoon, I could see a whole line up of different groups of animals working their way towards the water. They took their turns just like on National Geographic.

Later in the night the lions came. Too bad I had fallen asleep, but their roars were incorporated into my dreams.

The next day we were able to go out for a drive earlier than the first day so we spotted quite a few more animals. My favorite was the diminutive dik-dik, an antelope about the size of a large house cat. Saw some lions lazying around in the shade, a big male elephant near the road and several giraffe. That night again we were treated to an unforgettable show.

Map

Towards Etosha

Heading north and towards the famous National Park we stopped at the Epacha Lodge. Onto tarred road for a welcome relief we zipped along. Mostly passing private game parks, you can tell by the high wire fencing. Places you can go and pay your money to shoot the animal of your choice. Not real sporting that I can tell, but very profitable for the farmers. There was a long line at the Windhoek airport at the gun pickup window. (can't just check them you know).

Quite possibly the most over priced, pretentious and generally stupid place I have ever stayed. I took that purposely bad picture from the balcony of our "chalet" just out of spite. A less inspiring view one will rarely find. Despite the advertising there's no game about and the staff are not likely to arrange anything anyway. Plus, like most over priced lodging, they charge for internet access. (why is that?) Only thing of note was the drunk Russian guests screaming anglo saxon curses at each other between the buildings.

Let me think of something positive... Oh, the porters did wash quite a bit of the dust off the car so it looked relatively presentable. I gave them a pretty generous tip.

Map

Palmwag Lodge

Continuing Namibia coverage continues... After leaving the skeleton coast at the north end we headed inland back into the desert. Excitement building as we moved closer to the animals. My companions were more more focused on animals than I was, I was quite enchanted to just be here.

We stayed the night at Palmwag Lodge (and as seen in my picture taken during a morning hike). A welcome bit of greenery amongst the sun blasted hills. That's pronounced "pal em whah" so they don't think you're just another clueless tourist.

We had a really nice (and long, more than 12 km) hike in the morning and a game drive in the evening. (meaning driving around in a land rover looking for game). On the hike the guide got us quite close to a herd of zebras much to the delight of the avid photographers. In the evening we saw a giraffe, at first from a far distance and then quite close up. Giraffe's are graceful and gangly at the same time and one wonders what they're thinking . Another day we watched one contemplate bending down for a drink for what seemed to be hours, weighing the need for a drink against the defenseless position that is required to reach down to the water.

Although it wasn't really on our way, we had made a detour to Twyfelfontein to see the rock art. Quite inspiring. If I was a bushman I would like nothing better than to hang around that lovely valley, with a spring, and tell tales and chisel some pictures into the rocks. In the visitor center there was interesting interpretive information regarding the pictures origins and meanings.

Map

Olympic update: Sunday I caught the last part of the final sailing race in the 49er class. I'm not sure when sailing became a demolition derby but the action was really over the top. The wind and waves were really heavy and that boat is just not able to handle that weather. Teams were capsizing right and left, mostly to windward after weathering a puff and then being unable to keep the boat upright. Time to ask that age old question: when a boat is upside down (like the Americans were) when it is blown across the finish line, does it count?

Cape cross and the skeleton coast

After a pleasant sojourn in Swakopmund we headed north up the coast to Cape Cross and then the skeleton coast. Note the weather, as soon as we set off we were into dense fog and cold wind blowing off the Atlantic. Quite a shock after the sunny desert, now were were in a foggy desert. There is almost no rainfall along the coastal strip, what water the plants and animals get is caught from the fog. The land looks completely barren and it is except for lichen clinging to the rocks.

The road is smooth, paved with a combination of salt (which they have a lot of) and cement. We passed a whole series of campgrounds that are full in the summer months with families escaping the heat and surf fishing. Nobody home this time of year, just beach and ocean on the left side of the road, bare grey gravel desert on the right.

We stayed the night at Cape Cross Lodge watching the waves and fog and thinking about a San Francisco summer at Ocean Beach. I went out for a short walk before dinner and was amazed at the amount of bones amongst the sand. I was puzzling over this when I noticed what looked like bones from a human hand, except with unusually long fingers. Really creepy. Then I realized they were seal bones, seal flippers have bones internally similar to a hand. There is a seal colony nearby which explained part of the puzzle. On the way back I saw two jackals which filled in the rest.

Jackals get a bad rap I think, but they are really graceful and stylish animals. Trotting along like some purebred dog, decorated with a dark colored back. The black back jackal (BBJ). They prey on the seals which explains the bones. We didn't actually go to see the seal colony. It was described as noisy and smelly ("the smelliest place in Namibia" was one description) and didn't open in the morning until 10:00 so we passed and hit the road instead.

Just up the road are the gates to Skeleton Coast Park. Note the skulls on the gate, quite a nice touch. Used to be in the days before GPS and radar and all that a lot of ships ran aground here. And when they did the crews were in big trouble. With no water and miles and miles to go to get some, if you knew which way to go. The picture is of the wreck of the Benguela Eagle which has some story that you can look up. There is getting to be a real problem maintaining the Skeleton Coast image since ship wrecks are getting less frequent and the few remaining wrecks are deteriorating fast. There is a Russian trawler on the beach between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund but I suspect that was planted. There is another abandoned trawler anchored in the harbor that looked to be in line for the next needed shipwreck.

Then out the north end of the park and into Damaraland. More on that next time.

Map

Soccer update: Nigeria whupped Belgium 4-1 in today's semi. Final against Argentina on Saturday the 23rd.