Durbars

Last week, we took an excursion up north with the Nigerian Field Society (NFS). Specifically to view the durbars at Kano and Katsina. On friday afternoon we flew Virgin Nigeria (VK) from the new domestic terminal (MMA2) to Kano which was really a treat. The cabin crew on VK was well trained and efficient which was great, but there was something else going on. The passengers were not the usual rowdy crowd. They queued up patiently and even sat in their assigned seats.

Arrived in Kano and could feel the difference. There was none of the frentic chaos of Lagos, there was a certain calmness in the atmosphere. The weather was quite different too, not too hot and very low humidity. Picked up the luggage without the usual scrum and off on the bus to the hotel.

There were three things we had heard about this trip that made it highly recommended. First, the hotel is nice, second the city ( and the traffic ) is relatively pleasant and third, the access at the durbars is unsurpassed. The leader, Paulette, is a personal friend of the emirs of Kano and Katsina. She had lived in Kano for 14 years in the 80's and 90's.

The Prince Hotel is very nice, with room prices from N14,000 up per night. We opted for a low end room, but we all got to use the same nice swimming pool. Kano is in the savannah with grassland and scattered trees, including the picturesque baobab. Pretty flat, the surroundings are a rich agricultural area, producing maize, millet, and sorgum. At one time this area was the economic powerhouse of Nigeria but has been neglected as the economy was sucked into the oil trap. The old city was surrounded by a high wall made of mud bricks that has been restored in places and left as a mound of dirt in others. Traffic was light compared to Lagos that's for sure and we were able to get around pretty easily. The mix is different too, lots more motorcycles compared to the number of cars.

The hoards of okada produce thick clouds of exhaust that combined with burning garbage and kitchen fires give the city a thick haze of pollution. Not very pleasant until one gets out into the countryside.

The emirs are remnants of the government that was in place when the British arrived. (they captured Kano in 1903). Once each year the local leaders pledge allegiance to the emir at these durbars. The second day we went by bus about 70km further north to see the durbar at Katsina. We sat in plastic chairs up on top of the palace wall, under the shade and next to the dignitaries that included the state governor. Each traditional ruler that reports to the emir then parades by on horseback accompanied by some others on horseback and some on foot (photo above). All dressed in traditional finery with lots of horns blaring and drums pounding. A picture doesn't do it justice, you will just have to imagine the noise and dust.

At Katsina, the emir's cavalry charged across the ground and pulled up short of the emir to symbolize their loyalty. At Kano, the next day, the parade was similar but each group then did a charge. Only a couple of horses fell or threw their riders. Kano also featured a deafening volley of old fashioned muskets. (Kano emir's palace)

In Kano, the women in our group got a special treat with a visit to the emir's second wife inside the harem. No men allowed and no pictures either. This was possible because of our leaders long friendship with the emir and his wives.

Look at the pictures, smell the dust, hear some pounding drums, wailing horns and flutes, and ear splitting gunshots. Admire the costumes. Sort of like the Rose Parade with cavalry charges.