Happy New Year

Several months ago, I mentioned that the AK47 rifle has a distinctive sound when fired at you. I just got remembered where that idea came from. In the movie "Heartbreak Ridge", as seen tonight on the Clint Eastwood marathon, this is mentioned several times as the heroes prove themselves rescuing medical students in Granada.

I will tell you that the sound of that weapon is nothing like heard on the movie soundtrack. In reality it's a pop-pop-pop like firecrackers. Can't tell you if it's distinctive, I believe it's the only gunfire I've heard live and I was not thinking critically at the time. Just trying to put as many walls as possible between myself and the sound.

Not much of a New Years party, watching Mr. Eastwood, but it's wonderful to be home and safe. Happy New Year to y'all.

Third worldification of the USA

I made up this new word awhile ago (but now I see others have too) and I've been reminded this morning of it's ongoing progress. Took the car to get a smog check as part of renewing the registration. Mechanic was having trouble getting the check computer to intialize due to a leak in the exhaust probe. I guess I was looking like I was ready to leave, which I was, when the guy said he would do the test for half price if I came back tomorrow. Well, he got the machine going and I did get the test completed for the stated discount.

Bargaining for smog tests? Is nothing sacred?

Adresses, I've been amused by the lack of a numbering system in lots of Lagos, so you get addresses like: "Lekki expressway, towards Ajah, next to Eti-Osa local office". But then here I get a reference like "Lafayette Bookstore 3569 Mt. Diablo Blvd, next to Postino". Like the smog guy when I called "on the way to Target". Are we so different?

On the hustle

Trying to finish my errands in California before flying back on Sunday. Spare inner tube for the bicycle, dry cleaning, car registration etc. It's so easy. In and out of the DMV in 20 minutes, pick up the dry cleaning no problem. Although why I had to bring a suitcase full of clothes that I hadn't worn from Africa to California to get them cleaned and pressed to bring back to Africa where I won't wear them really escapes me. Some things are better not questioned. Can't wait to get my shorts back on.

Some news items I found noteworthy:

• HP sells printers in Iran, well duh that's what they do and is it so dangerous?
• American broadcast TV goes digital February 17th. OK, so why is it that the PBS stations are the ones running the information on convertors and such? Do they just have the stupid viewers?
• Feds may open up offshore California for oil drilling. For a 17 months supply?
• Kickback scandal reveals that bribes exist in California? What a shock!
• English footballers behaving badly just like the yanks.
  
• Boats for sale ads increase on Craigslist. Maybe try to make one more house payment or just get out of town.
  
• The governator inducts class of 2008 into California Hall of Fame. With Dr. Seus and Dave Brubeck that's a distinguished group.
  

On the just like home notes, had a power cut on friday. But no generator man to fire up the backup. Just had to sit.

It's so cold

How do you guys stand it? Arrived yesterday into SFO in the rain. Breezed through customs and imigration. When the first guy marks your card with a 1 then you won't be asked to open your bags, pass right by. Caught a waiting shuttle, just by chance, didn't have any reservation and onto the freeway. Shared the ride with a young woman from India, she had been on the same BA flight, we commiserated over the total travel time. Door to door: 32 hours for her, 36 for myself.

I was actually feeling pretty good. Got upgraded to business class (seat 20D) for the leg from London and was able to sleep for a couple hours, really makes a difference to be able to lay down flat. But after 10 hours in the same seat I start to get goofy. I love that feeling about 20 minutes out when the airbrakes come out and the plane pitches down to the glide slope.

But it's cold in California, 50 degrees is just too cold. I can only go outside for a few minutes. Like just now to check the pool chemicals, back inside and rubbing my hands to revive them. Hard to believe that I won't get a power cut while typing this, habit keeps me saving frequently.
And it's dark here too. Sun comes up too late and goes down too early.

Better get started on my chores, got a costco shopping list of cheerios and other unobtainables. Renew the car registration and adjust the pool chlorinator. Routines of suburban life but made strange by three months of separation.

It's official

The wife has accepted a job back in California to start in April 2009. This has been in the works for a while so it's not a surprise, but it being official changed my thinking immediately. Now suddenly I'm thinking about what I'll miss and what I've enjoyed living here. Yes, I'm totally bipolar on this whole thing, despite being a pain in the ass, West Africa also has it's charms.

Like just now, I drove over to Rennies to buy a bottle of wine to bring to a dinner tomorrow night. Two Oceans Cabernet, pretty decent South African red. Sitting near the gate was Pious and another man, both work as drivers for other families. It's common for people to sit there to hitch a ride to the front gate, it's about a mile walk, because there's always someone going and the shuttles run only sporadically in the evening. I know Pious a little bit, he's driven me before, a real nice man, speaks english with an Indonesian accent and expressions picked up from his current boss.

We got to talking about last weeks bank robbery and Pious and the other man both had been nearby. They were excited to tell their stories but at the same time scornful of the robbers who don't work a proper job. We also soon discovered why the shuttles were slow, there was a big wahala at the front shuttle stop. Lots of shouting and gesticulating over some dispute. I was happy to drop them and move on. But it was a pleasure sharing some time with these two men.

There are inconveniences of living in Lagos, and sometimes the people seem to be rude and aggressive, but never towards me. I get greeted like: "Good morning, sir" and I do my best to know peoples names and initiate a greeting. I know that Stanley in the clubhouse is a big ManU supporter so I'm sure to remember something about a recent game to chat about. (hey, how about Rooney's two goals yesterday?)

Lagosians often have a scowl on their face that can be offputting. But say something and they will break out in the warmest smiles. Except that lady in security who takes quite a bit of cajoling before she smiles. Once they smile, they are your friends forever. We expats have started kind of a competition to see who can make that lady smile most.

It will be a year here, and it's become home. Tomorrow I'll feel sad to be on my penultimate trip to the airport. Next time it will be forever.

Seasons Greetings

Been inundated with helpful maintenance staff coming over to the house to see if there are any problems. Haven't seen these guys all year and now here they are. Yep, it's Christmas time, and everybody needs a gift. (locally known as "dash")

The gardeners want to be rewarded for "pruning" my tree. Well, it didn't need it and their treatment consisted of hacking off most of the branches so I passed up the opportunity. One of the gate guards yesterday suggested an amount equal to 6 months salary would be welcome. Some strange carpenter that I'd never seen before knocked at the door inquiring if anything needed doing. I almost said yes, since there is a cabinet door that is falling off, but then realized the smallest bill I had was N1,000 which would be way too much, so I demurred.

Last week while walking along the expressway coming back from buying some fruit, a guy sidled up to me and suggested that I needed to "help" him. Since we were near the used car lot, I pointed and asked "Would you like a car?".
"Yes, sure" he replied.
So I asked him, pointing, "which one? Would the hummer be OK?".
"Yes, sure, that would be fine." He replied as I turned and walked away. I was pleased to hear some bystanders laughing as I left.

I'll probably wait until after Christmas to take that walk again. The next day there was a bank robbery and shoot out in the same area. Here's the newspaper article that ran the next day. (Note how the police arrested the bystanders ).

14 invade bank with bombs, explosives

THERE was palpable fear in Ajah area of Lagos State at the weekend as policemen from the state police command engaged a gang of heavily armed robbers in a heavy shootout in a foiled robbery attempt.

A gang of about fourteen armed robbers had invaded a branch of a new generation bank in Ikota area of Ajah with sophisticated weapons including home-made bomb and other explosives.

The robbers had successfully destroyed all the barricades leading to the bank and were about forcing their way into the bank premises when policemen from Ajah Divisional Police Station stormed the scene of the attempted robbery.

The Sunday Tribune gathered that all of the robbers except an unlucky one escaped through a speed boat which was stationed at the bank of the lagoon.

The robbers in an attempt to block the police from getting to the bank had bombed a red bus which they might have snatched after disengaging from their speed boat and used it to block both sides of the road.

The Divisional Police Officer in charge of the station on seeing the sophistication of the weapons being used by the robbers called for reinforcement from the Area Command and an Armoured Personnel Carrier was drafted to the scene. The arrival of the armoured carrier led to a serious gun exchange between the robbers and policemen as heavy shootings vibrated round the entire Ikota community in Ajah.

Some people were reportedly injured in the incident but the image maker in charge of the state police command, Frank Mba, while speaking on the foiled robbery with the Sunday Tribune denied that anybody was injured in the gun duel.

Forty five people, who were at the river bank who saw the armed robbers disengaging from the boat ,have since been arrested for failing to report to the police for prompt response.

Durbars

Last week, we took an excursion up north with the Nigerian Field Society (NFS). Specifically to view the durbars at Kano and Katsina. On friday afternoon we flew Virgin Nigeria (VK) from the new domestic terminal (MMA2) to Kano which was really a treat. The cabin crew on VK was well trained and efficient which was great, but there was something else going on. The passengers were not the usual rowdy crowd. They queued up patiently and even sat in their assigned seats.

Arrived in Kano and could feel the difference. There was none of the frentic chaos of Lagos, there was a certain calmness in the atmosphere. The weather was quite different too, not too hot and very low humidity. Picked up the luggage without the usual scrum and off on the bus to the hotel.

There were three things we had heard about this trip that made it highly recommended. First, the hotel is nice, second the city ( and the traffic ) is relatively pleasant and third, the access at the durbars is unsurpassed. The leader, Paulette, is a personal friend of the emirs of Kano and Katsina. She had lived in Kano for 14 years in the 80's and 90's.

The Prince Hotel is very nice, with room prices from N14,000 up per night. We opted for a low end room, but we all got to use the same nice swimming pool. Kano is in the savannah with grassland and scattered trees, including the picturesque baobab. Pretty flat, the surroundings are a rich agricultural area, producing maize, millet, and sorgum. At one time this area was the economic powerhouse of Nigeria but has been neglected as the economy was sucked into the oil trap. The old city was surrounded by a high wall made of mud bricks that has been restored in places and left as a mound of dirt in others. Traffic was light compared to Lagos that's for sure and we were able to get around pretty easily. The mix is different too, lots more motorcycles compared to the number of cars.

The hoards of okada produce thick clouds of exhaust that combined with burning garbage and kitchen fires give the city a thick haze of pollution. Not very pleasant until one gets out into the countryside.

The emirs are remnants of the government that was in place when the British arrived. (they captured Kano in 1903). Once each year the local leaders pledge allegiance to the emir at these durbars. The second day we went by bus about 70km further north to see the durbar at Katsina. We sat in plastic chairs up on top of the palace wall, under the shade and next to the dignitaries that included the state governor. Each traditional ruler that reports to the emir then parades by on horseback accompanied by some others on horseback and some on foot (photo above). All dressed in traditional finery with lots of horns blaring and drums pounding. A picture doesn't do it justice, you will just have to imagine the noise and dust.

At Katsina, the emir's cavalry charged across the ground and pulled up short of the emir to symbolize their loyalty. At Kano, the next day, the parade was similar but each group then did a charge. Only a couple of horses fell or threw their riders. Kano also featured a deafening volley of old fashioned muskets. (Kano emir's palace)

In Kano, the women in our group got a special treat with a visit to the emir's second wife inside the harem. No men allowed and no pictures either. This was possible because of our leaders long friendship with the emir and his wives.

Look at the pictures, smell the dust, hear some pounding drums, wailing horns and flutes, and ear splitting gunshots. Admire the costumes. Sort of like the Rose Parade with cavalry charges.

Photos from Kano trip

Some of the ones I liked I put here. Enjoy!

Eid al-Adha

This Muslim holiday commemorates Abraham's sacrifice of a ram and the end of the Hajj. We traveled to Kano to see the Durbar that occurs at the same time too. More on that in subsequent postings. Looking through my photos this morning, I decided I liked this one. Seen alongside the road a couple of days before the holiday. This guy was showing off his fine cattle and we all enjoyed a laugh as he sat and even stood on this fine beast. A few days later the cattle were mostly gone, probably to a family feast.

Eid Mubarak!

Christmas time in the city

I was going to write a story recounted to me on Tuesday by a fellow resident. But lots has happened since then. Gunfire last night, heard off to the east, pretty far away. How sick is it that I begin to estimate the distance? Early too, about 19:30, I saw the guard go by on his rounds during this and was quite freaked out. Ducked into the kitchen to put more walls between myself and the sound.

Talked to Melissa just now, neighbor to the west, who heard other gunfire. Guard reported to her: "Don't worry Madam, there are no guns in VGC, we keep you safe." She also mentioned the gun battle outside the Cactus restaurant yesterday afternoon. Armed robbery attempt, nothing in the papers. Jane reported witnessing a shooting on the Falomo bridge, also yesterday afternoon, no further details.

Went, well attempted, shopping trip with Sunday as the driver. We did get to the company clinic for Mefloquine refill and got a couple books from the drop one take one library, then off towards town. Traffic was bad, not just usual bad, extra bad. As we were creeping along, I noticed Sunday was agitated, squirming around in the seat. Then he blurted out: "Sir, I need to easy myself." So he dashed off to the bushes, while I took the wheel to creep along while he took care of business. He easily caught up, since the car had moved hardly at all. I had every sympathy having done the same thing several weeks ago coming home from the beach. Jump out of the car, take care of business and jump right back in.

Other news was the usual cascade of large and small disasters. Several children killed from contaminated cough syrup, branded "My Pikin" of all things. Banks closed in Ibadan because of armed miscreants. Generator fumes kill four in Iforin. Unknown gunmen assasinate traditional ruler in Enugu. Beggars in front of Park and Shop unusually strident.

Sunday tells me it's December, everyone needs a gift. I nearly fell off my seat when the radio came on with a Nigerian version of Trini Lopez's classic "Felice Navidad". OK, gift fine, but please tone down the gunplay and lower the volume.

I'm going now to float in the pool and look at the blue sky and while looking up hope not to see the workers fall off the scaffolding while they fix the tennis court lights. Please give me some peace on earth.

The sky is blue, with light clouds, bumpy underneath. Two maintenance guys up the scaffold fiddling with the lights, 7 on the ground discussing football. A couple fishermen went by poling their dugouts with every bit the grace of a Venetian.

This is where I live.

San Francisco, 1978

Thirty years ago.

November 18, mass suicide at Jonestown, Guyana.
November 27, murder of Harvey Milk and George Moscone

"Horror upon horror, shock upon shock.... What is there about November? What is there about San Francisco?" Herb Caen, Nov. 28, 1978, San Francisco Chronicle.

Seems so long ago. I was living in San Francisco that year. My best friend's boss was the father of Larry Layton, the leader of the gunmen who shot Congressman Ryan and others at the airstrip. The rest of their family died that night.

See: Journey to Nowhere, a new world tragedy. Shiva Naipul.

Picture is undated. George Moscone, Jim Jones.

December already

Hard to believe it's December, weather has become less humid, but hotter, generally a welcome change. Laying in the pool, it could be an August day in Walnut Creek. Once again as time to leave gets closer (flying out on Dec 20th) things that were cute, or quaint tend to become just another pain in the ass. The company is in the throes of yet another strike, including the drivers so I haven't been out of our neighborhood for a couple weeks.

Q. What's your favorite thing about Nigeria?
A. Hearing "Cabin crew, doors to automatic and crosscheck".

Kind of a cheap shot, but that's where I'm at. We had two official turkey dinners, one at the company compound and another with our neighbors. The residence committee organized the first one, complete with 10 roasted turkeys. I was told on good authority that each turkey cost $300 flown in fresh from France courtesy of La Pointe supermarket. Perhaps the world's most expensive food store, I was only there once and probably won't be back. Although the array of currency counting machines certainly was impressive. Real afficionados keep track of when the weekly air shipment comes in and make sure to be there when it's unloaded.

Our neighborhood put on a great meal as usual. Two turkeys were cooked, one fried in oil and another roasted over charcoal in an aluminum foil contraption. We provided a whole sirloin that was roasted to perfection by one of the good cooks. Add to those an array of holiday dishes and a fine afternoon/evening was had by all. Maybe the (mostly South African) wine had something to do with it.

Now it's monday, power just went out, so we're on generator. Country supposedly lost 800 mw capacity last week due to destruction of a key natural gas pipeline. Not militants, just thieves that had apparently put in one too many taps on the pipe and it ruptured. We'll be off to Kano (kahn-oh) on friday to attend a big festival up there. Supposed to be a real spectacle, more on that later. Unless we cancel because of rioting in Jos (joss), another northern city. These things have spread before, even as far as Lagos. Fasten your seat belts.