Monday, May 19, 2008

Boat Ride

Went on a trip Sunday with the Field Society. They arrange trips all over the place, we had joined a while ago but this was the first one was actually went on. Met at 08:00 at the wildlife sanctuary right near the office. Since the driver went missing, I drove the 4 km all by myself. No driver's license, no insurance, no permission, just hoping for no police and light traffic.

With my wife yelling "Slow down" I got there safely in just a few minutes. Seemed to me that staying ahead of the other vehicles, especially the minibuses was a reasonably safe strategy and anyway not much traffic that early on Sunday. Left the car there and got a ride with some others to the boats. "Don't worry, it's safe to leave the car here."

About a 100 km ride east along the coast on a very good road, at least after we got through Ajah. That's the end of the line turnaround for lots of bus routes and is always jammed and the road bad. Then we were cruising along. I was riding with Esther and her two kids. A German family. The kids were looking forward to the beach.

We turned off the main road onto a pretty bad dirt track for the 10 km to the boats. A small tidy village, Ise. We met the Oba (chief) Ganiyu Adebowale Adegbesan. Quite a regal looking fellow dressed in a lacy white robe and carrying a ceremonial whisk. Our leader presented some cash towards the construction of his new house and three cans of Milo. Very traditional to meet the chief when visiting his territory. When the Oba found I was from the U.S. he pointedly asked me what I was doing about Mr. Bush. Not sure where to go with that I stuttered something about him being gone soon anyway. That seemed satisfactory. These chiefs are still a force in the community and as he pointed out it's a lot cheaper to come to him to resolve a dispute than going to court.

We piled into two large wooden canoes and pushed out through the water hyacinth into the lagoon. Outboard powered, we headed east for most of an hour, our goal to visit one of the many villages accessible only by water. This lagoon stretches for at least 100 km east from Lagos, varying in width from 10 km to much less. Green, green, green, the surrounding trees and bushes. Bamboo stakes in the shallow areas support fish traps, the water the color of weak tea. Some fish hawks sitting in the tops of trees observing the food supply. Threatened rain but never felt more than a few drops.

At Ode we got down and wandered into town. This place was larger than I expected. Enjoyed a warm Fanta from the local store and chatted with the locals. Was a bit annoyed by a few of us white folks who think they should be offered a place to sit wherever they go without even buying anything. One woman leaned over to me and complained, "they're not even cold". Well, duh, without road or electricity what to you think you're going to get, just enjoy what there is.

Then back on the boat to Ise and drove to the beach. We sat around and shared food and conversation. Had a South African mince specialty (bobotie) and watched the waves. Sorry I didn't bring my swimsuit since for once the waves were low enough for safe swimming.

Back to wildlife sanctuary, yes the car was safe. Drove home without incident.

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