On the Autostrada

At the train station in Rome, we picked up our Punto. Well, not exactly at the station, a couple blocks down in the garage where the rental companies keep their cars. We had a map with instructions on getting out of Rome, marked by the agent and a bigger map of the country that we had bought at the bookstore in the station.

The car was not impressive. It certainly didn't look like much. I turned the key and it didn't start. My wife exclaimed "See the thing won't even start!". Patience dear, it's a diesel and takes a bit longer. Then it did start, we threw the suitcases in the trunk and back seat and headed out. Seemed simple enough, turn right, and right and right and straight and right. Time, about 10:00 am. Enough time to be on the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA) and out of town in good time.

Missed the last right and made a questionable U-turn and then got to it. Next stop Firenze (Florence) and then Venezia (Venice). Despite what you may have seen in the movies, driving was pretty easy. The autostradas were mostly two lanes, sometimes three. On the two lane sections you should only be in the left lane if you are passing and I don't mean just cruising along. If you dawdle in the left lane for sure an Alfa will be on your tail in seconds with lights flashing. So stay on the right and when you need to pass just do it and get back to the right. Stay alert and it all works pretty well.

The A1 (Firenze) was the sign we were looking out for and we kept watching for it. Some of these turns don't have any warning so it's good to keep track of your progress on the map. Coming up to Florence I suppose we could have followed the guide books directions and gone immediately to the most convenient parking, but what's the fun of that? We had to make our own way and ended up in the same place maybe an hour later. The place is Piazzale Michelangelo where free parking is readily available. It's across the river on a hill looking down at the town with an excellent view.

Taking just our day packs we headed for town. A bus came but the driver said he didn't have any tickets so we took a taxi. We were booked into the Hotel La Gioconda and found it a pleasant enough place to stay. Just outside the center of town and and with the usual lack of elevator we enjoyed our room on the fourth floor. (which to us would be the fifth floor, another good reason to leave the big bags in the car).

What about Florence? It's all about Michelangelo, after all his David stood outside in the main square for 300 years before being moved into the Accademia. There's still a copy outside but you must go into the Accademia, book a reservation online and it's quite convenient, we actually bought a reserved ticket from an American couple who had just had enough for one day. BTW, when queuing up in these crowded tourist locations, don't be afraid to use Italian rules. Act like you are going up to the front to just ask a question and then go right in. No one will say anything and if you are a bit confident it can save hours of waiting. Especially good is to cut in front of a tourist group that is milling around waiting for some direction, they won't even notice as you go past.

The other necessity in Florence is the Uffizi. Amazing and long and row after row of marbles gets kind of old but the paintings are the real treat. And some rooms have benches so you can rest your feet and contemplate the art.

Be sure to ditch the crowds and enter the Doumo museum, right across from the back of the church. Modern, well lit, uncrowded, with good bathrooms, it's a real pleasure. The statue of John the Baptist in the ground floor courtyard is probably the best thing I saw in Italy. His fear yet acceptance of the sword is revealed in magnificent emotion. Michelangelo's last Pieta is here too. Unfinished and dissatisfied he supposedly took a hammer to it before being stopped.

Eat gelato, watch the hordes of tourists and shop if you must. I think Florence would be fun on a bicycle, it's flat and the drivers are amazingly polite with regard to cyclists. I even saw taxis yielding to bikes. The biggest hazard looked to be lines of tourists snaking across the square. Something for next time maybe.